Following the Variety: Chardonnay
Where there’s wine, there’s Chardonnay. It’s made in many different styles, yet is often dismissed as one-dimensional. The new video series of “Following the Variety” is now available on patreon, digging deep into why Chardonnay is such an important variety. There are six episodes giving a comprehensive guide to some of the greatest wines of the world:
(1) introduction to chardonnay
Chardonnay is planted in so many regions because it’s such a versatile variety, maintaining acidity even in warmer climates. There are a couple of disadvantages though—susceptibility to spring frost and millerandage (“hen and chickens”) where the fruit doesn’t set evenly. The latter reduces yields but can also add a light tannic texture.
Chardonnay is a non-aromatic variety, which is why winemakers love it: Chardonnay allows them to do what they want. Fermentation temperature, vessels, malolactic fermentation, and lees contact all influence the style of the final wine. Chardonnay is both of an expression of place and of people.
(2) burgundy
This is the home of Chardonnay and the region that influences winemakers across the world. The concept of terroir originates in Burgundy and is seen in the wines made from Chardonnay. The variety allows the regions, villages, and vineyards to be expressed in the wines—and also the people who make them. The episodes explain the growing conditions in Burgundy, the different villages, the Cru system, and the styles of wine made from Chardonnay.
(3) chablis
It’s part of Burgundy but it’s not. The climate is cooler, the soils different, and the styles of wine leaner, more acidic, and less oak influenced. Always Chardonnay, Chablis is very much its own region and gives perhaps the purest expression of the variety. The episode also explains the differences between Chablis AC, Petit Chablis AC, Premier Cru Chablis, and Grand Cru Chablis.
(4) sparkling wine
Chardonnay is the base for much of the finest sparkling wine across the world, not least in Champagne. It’s also used for sparkling wine in Burgundy, Loire, Alsace, and Limoux because its high acid, non-aromatic character is ideal. And that’s why it’s grown for sparkling wine in England, Italy, Australia, South Africa, Argentina, California, and Oregon. The episode looks at all these regions and the differences between them.
(5) usa and australia
They may be the other side of the world from each other, but there are a lot of parallels between the US and Australia, and that’s seen in Chardonnay. It’s the most planted white variety in both California and Australia; as the countries’ wines emerged internationally, fuller, richer, oak-heavy styles became very popular; in more recent years, leaner wines from cooler sites have become more fashionable. Chardonnay is not always what it seems.
(6) southern hemisphere
Finally, a focus on the other major countries of the southern hemisphere besides Australia. Chardonnay is the second-most planted white variety in New Zealand and is made in many of its moderate maritime regions, as well as the cool continental climate of Central Otago. It’s also the second-most planted white variety in South Africa; there’s high-volume wine produced inland, but it excels in the regions located near the coast where there’s a strong cooling influence. Similarly in Chile, there’s perfectly decent wine made in warm Central Valley and also high-quality wine made near the Pacific coast in Casablanca, San Antonio, and Leyda. Argentina is different: there is exceptional Chardonnay made at very high altitude in Mendoza.
These six episodes tell you everything about Chardonnay you need to know, and I hope encourage you to open a bottle from all these regions to fully understand the world of Chardonnay—and the world of wine.
the episodes are also available as a one-off purchase on patreon
